To begin with, I must admit that I spent regrettably little time in Stone Town during my first visit.
For me, like for most tourists crossing the waters to the island of Zanzibar, Stone Town was scheduled to be a stopover for a couple of days, an in-between place on the way from the “mainland” Tanzania to gorgeous tropical beaches of Zanzibar.
But at the moment I came out of the ferry terminal I became intrigued. Stone Town is a charming door to Zanzibar, and it fully deserves to be a main destination of one’s journey.
Temptations
The first temptation was to go and discover how a labyrinth of narrow streets is put together in the older part of Stone Town.
The next temptation was to make a nice photo collection of carved wooden doors and colourful window frames that lavishly decorate Stone Town houses – I already imagined my nice new photo album featuring those beauties.
Then there were terraces and restaurants that smelled so good, looked relaxed, well organised and welcoming. And then I still had to decide about a place to watch the sunset that night (an everyday luxury challenge of a traveller in Africa!), and I had to plan my Stone Town must-do’s: a Spice Tour, a boat trip to Prison Island, a snorkelling trip and a visit to Freddy Mercury’s house on Kenyatta Road.
Anyway, I got out of the hotel and started walking – and then I could not stop admiring. Stone Town is a real treat for a photographer: because of its colours and lights, but mainly thanks to its contrasts.
Contrasts between old and new, renovated and worn out, plain and glamorous, Africa and Middle East, nice crafts and made-in-China souvenirs. Contrast between yesterday’s chaos in Dar Es Salaam and today’s calm coziness in Stone Town, dominated by prayer calls during the day hours, and by local and Western music tunes during the night hours.
To see and to be seen
The business at the night market was going well that evening.
The density of crowd was high, it looked like all available tourists and at least half of Stone Town residents were there.
The food was abundant and fresh, but the most spectacular thing was – the dress code of the Stone Town ladies.
The dress code: a long flowing gown a la opera diva, the brightest colour fabric you can get, maximum paillettes, maximum Swarovski, hair accessories and shoes in matching colours, shiny bag and a smartphone. Even baby girls were dressed in line with the dress code (smartphone and bag excluded)! And the most amazing thing : it did not look cheap and vulgar at all, it would fall out of context in any other place, but felt so appropriate here in Stone Town, a place already full of contrasts. It felt like all ladies that night were bride’s maids at a huge wedding party.
It was definitely a grandiose show off: the family with their many children would make an entrance to the night market, but would not mix with the crowd. They would first organise a place to sit down on the ground (have you ever seen an opera diva in her concert gown sitting on the ground in a crowded place?), make sure children are comfortable, and then arrange getting some food.
Kenyatta Road under a morning rain
Sooner or later everyone discovering Stone Town ends up on Kenyatta Road. All roads in Stone Town seem to lead to Kenyatta Road. Your guide or your hotel receptionist will show you the street on the map, and most probably say something like: this is the central street of Stone Town, “don’t buy souvenirs here, you can get them cheaper around the corner”.
If you walk around for a couple of hours visiting shops and cafés, you will start bumping into the same people and start noticing same young couples walking back and forth, popping out of narrow streets, first looking a bit disorientated and then getting a happy look of recognition on their faces. I got a cozy déjà vu feeling of a small relaxed holiday town that suddenly reminded me of Provence and of Tuscany.
Be comfortable about staying here for the evening: on Kenyatta Road you are close to the night market and to many good restaurants. Here you can get a bit of a vibe from the night market, have a perfect romantic candlelight dinner, or drink some local beers with your group. Or just stay enjoying a glass of wine admiring the starry African sky (this is Africa, remember?)
Kenyatta Road can get filled up and busy every now and then. But when in the morning on my second day a short rain broke out, the street became empty for a few beautiful moments. And when the sun came out, I was overwhelmed by a pure sense of happiness and appreciation, by a certainty of being in the right place at the right time.
…and by the way, I still need to do a Spice Tour when I come back.
Do you want to get your own first hand Stone Town experience? Contact us at info@empakaaiculturalsafari.com. We are happy to answer all your questions, discuss your preferences and help you to book your trip.
